Go West: Canyons, Chocolates and Beaches

Traveling, Camping and Hiking My Way Westward

#52 of my 2023 52 Hike Challenge

Trail/Park: Zion National Park, Springdale, UT and Lake Mead National Recreation Area, Boulder City, NV

Trash Collected: 0.5 pounds

---

The theme of this trip has been a lot about letting go. Letting go of expectations. Letting go of fear. Letting go of independence. With the day’s sunrise the theme shifted to bravery. Maybe the previous day was instrumental in changing my mindset. In helping remind me of what I’m capable with preparation and perseverance. No matter what the catalyst, the pinks and corals of sunrise gave the morning a magical feel.

Sunrise and Shuttles

Reminiscent of my previous year’s visit to the area, it was a cold morning. I bundled up to meditate, dance and prepare breakfast. I thought about what I wanted my day to look like. I decided to let go of the pressure to take in a big hike. I’d get to Zion National Park, park and take the shuttle as far as I was comfortable, hiking wherever I landed. I also removed my expectation to hike a certain distance. It was ok to not hike at all.

Readying the camper to leave the campground, flute music filled the air from the stage in the middle of the site. I was invited to an “awakening” ceremony, which I politely declined. I wanted to get to the park as early as possible, knowing there could be lines at the entrance gate. Staying longer would shorten my time there and throw off my plan to get to my next campground before dark. I wanted time to savor this park having felt rushed on my visit in 2022.

Slow Exploration

I was thrilled to get to the park and drive right up to the entrance. No line. I found one of the last spots in the parking lot for RVs right behind a behemoth overlanding camper. Grabbing my pack I headed to the gift shop first to get a few things and fill up my water bottle before catching one of the free shuttles. The park was already bustling with people.

Happily seated near the front of the shuttle, I could see the park road as it wound its way through the canyon, upriver toward The Narrows. Based on the previous day drive up Kolob Terrace Road, I expected the road here to gain elevation and have deep drop-offs. Over the shuttle sound system, a narration explains the history and features of each part of the canyon. I enjoyed the opportunity to learn about the history, geology, flora and fauna of the Virgin River and the canyon. As we passed each shuttle stop a few people got off to explore the various vistas, but the shuttle stayed mostly full, with folks obviously prepared in waders and special footwear to hike up the Narrows. To my surprise the shuttle was nearly always at river level so there weren’t the cliff drop-offs I’d expected. This buoyed my spirits and feeling of bravery.

The shuttle’s last upriver stop – Temple of Sinawava – drops folks off at the Riverside Trail trailhead. From there a wide, well-marked trial follows the river about a mile in to the first river crossing leading into The Narrows. I took my time covering the distance, observing the beautiful, steep canyon walls, the changing foliage along the trail, the incredible views all around me. I tried hard to not take hundreds of photos, focusing on adding the sights, smells and sounds to memory. A mule deer, disinterested in the people stopping to take photos, sat low in the woods. Cactus, fern and horsehair shared space at every turn.

Approaching The Narrows, the river was busy with folks returning from their early starts upriver and others, like me arriving for the view or those ready wade upriver. I watched a couple groups start their journey up into The Narrows before slowly making my way back toward the shuttle. Along the way I stopped to take more pictures and soak in the view. While I had originally had grand hiking plans, this leisurely approach suited my mood and reminded me I didn’t need to try and take it all in. I felt less rushed, more fully immersed in the experience.

Angels and Chocolate

Back on the shuttle, I made the decision to get off at the Big Bend stop, a large sweeping bend in the river that sits below the famous Angels Landing, a popular rock-climbing area, and home to many raptors including the California Condor, which I hoped to see. The stop yielded views of Angels landing, but not the condors. A park volunteer pointed out a few climbers and shared information about other stops along the shuttle route heading back to the park entrance.

At the next stop a large group boarded the shuttle, having completed the Angels Landing hike. I listened to them talk about the hike up, the views and their return. The hat of one of the kids in the group caught my attention – a Ferrari logo on a black background. He pulled a large chocolate bar from his pack, his family chiding him to share. He reluctantly shared a few pieces. I quietly told him I understood his reluctance to share, being a lover of chocolate myself. A little later he offered me a piece which I savored and thanked him for sharing. I learned his name was Ethan and he loves playing baseball as well as Ferrari’s. The interaction was just as special as the hike and park, perhaps more so.

Before long I was on my way out of the park and off to my next stop at Lake Mead National Recreation Area. The day had again grown hot so a stop at a Dairy Queen along the way was a welcome break from driving. I was finally into a routine of driving and breaks that felt easy. The drive through the Virgin River Gorge didn’t stress me the same way it had on my last trip west. I managed to bring the comments from Katherine forward, enjoying the views as I made my way along the steep grade.

Leisurely Pace to the Lake

My route clipped the corner of Arizona before heading into Nevada. Construction along the way slowed the traffic considerably. Embracing the slowed speeds, the delays actually lowered my stress level, allowing me to savor the views as the landscape continued to change on my way past Las Vegas to the Boulder Beach campground. The campground is very large and was packed with campers. It took me a bit to find the loop and my site. A flat concrete pad tucked into the end of a loop, I had a decent view of Lake Mead over the tops of the campers parked in the rows of loops between me and the lake.

Preparing dinner and watching the sun sink lower, I was floored at how low the water is on the lake. This lake is the visible proof of climate change. It’s obvious where the waterline used to be relative to where it is now. Even from this distance the gap between the waterline and water is broad. While I didn’t know the exact measurements, it looks to be 20 feet or more below where it’s been previously. As broad as the lake is, that’s a significant amount of water. It’s heartbreaking.

Despite the number of campers, I was able to catch a view of the stars as the sky darkened into night. I reviewed my route for the next day, considering how much time I would spend in the area before making the final push toward my California destination with family. My goal would be to be on the road early enough to avoid as much of the heat of the day crossing the California desert. I wouldn’t feel completely comfortable until I could get the car in for a service appointment.

---

This travel, hike and camping took place on the traditional territory of the Nuwuvi (Southern Paiute), Pueblos, and Nüwüwü (Chemehuevi) who have stewarded this land for more than 5,000 years. I respect the histories, languages and cultures of these peoples, whose presence continues to enrich our vibrant and changing communities. Join me in learning more about the tribes and these lands, by following the links provided.

---

Next Post Preview: The day’s drive takes much longer than expected, but in the end it’s just the way it was meant to be.

---

HOME AWAY FROM HOME: My adventure camper is a lovely little teardrop made-to-order by the incredibly talented people at Vistabule in St. Paul, MN.

---

GEAR: Granite Gear Crown2 38 Pack,Marmot Kompressor Pack,Oboz Katabatic Mid Waterproof,Oboz Katabic Low,Mountain Hardware Stretchdown™ Light Jacket, Mountain Hardware Stretchdown™ Pant,REI Co-op XeroDry GTX Jacket,REI Co-op Magma 850 Down Hoodie,REI Co-op XeroDry GTX Pants, Gnara Go There™ Pants, Chickfly Merino Eucalyptus Leggings,Icebreaker Women’s Merino 200 Oasis Long Sleeve Crewe Thermal Top, Icebreaker Merino 200 Oasis Thermal Leggings, SPOT GEN3 Satellite GPS Messenger, Dueter Dirtbag, Kula Cloth, Leki Women’s Micro Vario Cor-Tec TA trekking poles, Nemo Dragonfly™ Ultralight Backpacking Tent, Nemo Sonic™ 0 Down Sleeping Bag,Paria Thermodown 30 down quilt, Exped Ultra 7R Mat,REI Flash 3-Season Sleeping Pad, Thermarest Z Seat™,MSR Pocket Rocket Stove, TOAKS Titanium 450ML Cup with Lid, MSR® IsoPro™ Fuel.

Want to know more about my gear selections? Head on over to Gear & Gadgets or check out my posts titled “Gear in Review”.

---

---

Supporting the blog through a donation also helps keep the content coming. If you’ve found a post or information useful please consider making a contribution.

---

Copyright Ruth Wikoff-Jones, ruthsbluemarble.com | No Use Permitted Without Prior Permission