Traveling, Camping and Hiking My Way Westward
Trail/Park: Custer State Park, Jewel Cave National Monument and Thunder Basin National Grasslands
Morning Breaks
I woke to a thick layer of frost coating both the inside and outside of the camper windows despite leaving a window cracked and running the heater intermittently overnight. I hadn’t been cold. In planning for the trip, one of the things I’d prepared for was cold weather. With wool blankets, comforters and even my Nemo Sonic sleeping bag as insurance, I was plenty warm. Warm enough that I didn’t really want to get up from my cozy nest. The idea of watching the morning break across camp finally got me moving. As I peaked out the windows, I noticed another Vistabule camper parked across the broad circle of the campground.
The morning rustling was starting around the campground. On the hill above camp the bison which had arrived the evening before was still making its way along, leisurely grazing on the trail where I’d hiked the day before. As I made breakfast, I watched a couple with their dogs head up the same trail. The dogs were pulling, wanting to get at the bison. I hollered at the couple to stop, but they kept going anyway, getting much too close, before turning away from the bison on a connected path. I focused on making breakfast hoping the dogs wouldn’t pull the bison’s attention or frustration. Thankfully I was able to eat without any further excitement.
Little did I know, this would only be the first of the excitements to come.
Unplanned Challenges Lurking
With breakfast cleaned up it was time to make my way further west to the Thunder Basin National Grasslands for my first foray of Bureau of Land Management (BLM) dispersed camping in the rig. I had little more than some GPS coordinates and a general idea of how to get where I was going.
Taking the southerly option on Hwy 44 out of the Badlands National Park meant I’d have more time on its extremely uneven surface, but this way I wouldn’t have to backtrack through the park to get to the interstate. I could head directly west toward Rapid City. The drive was filled with more of this landscape I truly appreciate. Buttes and prairie, few people and a palpable remoteness. I was so grateful for the overnight at the park finally having come to fruition.
About six miles outside of Rapid City, SD things quickly changed. The warning light indicating the car had low tire pressure came on. I got out to investigate. As I ran my hand around what I believed to be the offending tire it touched on a huge sheet metal screw with a hex top imbedded firmly in the middle of the tread. This was not good. Especially towing the camper. I kept going, hoping the screw would stay until I could get to town. Entering Rapid City, I was grateful to entered in the area where there was a Subaru dealership along with many tire and car repair shops.
I pulled in at the dealership, unhitched the trailer and handed over my keys. Heart sinking, I was prepared to lose a day of travel and be purchasing a full set of tires, an expense I did not need. While I waited, I advised family who were following my progress.
In a little less than an hour, the service team let me know the car was ready to go. All fixed up. I asked several times about the repair and explained the journey ahead. Thousands of miles. Driving on backcountry roads. Camping on BLM land away from services. All good they said. I asked again. Nope, wouldn’t send you out if we weren’t confident it’s all good. Reluctant, but grateful I took the keys and hitched the camper up again. To say my confidence was shaken was an understatement. I’d take it a bit easier where I could on the speed and conditions of my driving.
Revisiting the Black Hills with Fresh Eyes
The remainder of my day was filled with a beautiful drive through the Black Hills of South Dakota. Eventually I relaxed a bit about the tire and was able to enjoy the drive. On the way, because I’d chosen to take the route through Custer State Park, I found the spot where, years earlier, I’d stopped with my son to watch the year’s solar eclipse. We’d pulled two paper plates from the gear, punching a hole in one, and watched the eclipse on the second. He and some folks who stopped near us were mystified we could watch it with such a simple solution. I was thrilled it worked, having only done it a few times as a kid.
Driving through Custer State Park, I delighted in the memory of that earlier trip. The park visitor center, shops and campgrounds rolled slowly by all, as I’d remembered them. Mule deer and antelope grazed near the campground we’d enjoyed. Then I was in a part of the park I didn’t recall, taking in the sites of Legion and Stockade Lakes as I continued my winding route further west. Mentally I added the park on the “return to” list in my head. So much to see and do!
My route would take me past Jewel Cave National Monument next. Staying on my planned course is hard for me when there is a sight to see. I decided to use the opportunity to take a break from driving and give the car a little rest from towing. Maybe I could even get in a short hike before moving on? I pulled into the parking lot at the Visitor Center quickly determining this would be a brief stop. Towering pines kept the terrain from view until I got close. I wasn’t up for hiking steep vistas and caves hold no excitement for me, so I wandered the Visitor Center and then moved on, glad I’d at least stopped to find out a bit more about the monument, satisfied in my brief time taking in the quite of the surrounding forest.
The highway widened as I left the hills behind toward Newcastle, WY, the road’s deep bends became gentle and the hills flattened out again. I wasn’t sure if the terrain, my recently discovered anxiety or something else had me battling a slight headache and some nausea so I stopped for my comfort beverage, a ginger ale. Drink in hand, I pressed on toward the Thunder Basin National Grasslands to find the campsite I’d aimed to locate.
Turning off of Hwy 16 into Osage, WY, I plugged the GPS coordinates into my phone and headed out of town. Following Skull Creek Road, I neared where I thought I should find the designated site, but no water source appeared as noted in my research. There should be a cattle watering tub.
The coordinates told me I’d gone too far north. Finding a place to turn around the rig was an adventure all in itself. I ended up doing a U-turn into what was thankfully dry ditch. I looked in vain for any indication of a campsite. Then, off to one side there was an area next to another unnamed road that appeared to have been used regularly for camping. Perched on the top of a butte overlooking the west, it seemed like a safe place to land for the night. And the view. Well, it was stunning as I got dinner and settled in to watch the sunset. Getting into my travel rhythm, I knew it would get cold as soon as the sun disappeared so the best thing to do is to turn in for the night, which I did, grateful for finding this spot to end the day and in anticipation of the morning sunrise.
This travel, hike and camping took place on the traditional territory of the Tséstho’e (Cheyenne), Očhéthi Šakówiŋ, Mnicoujou, hinono’eino’ biito’owu’ (Arapaho) who have stewarded this land for more than 5,000 years. I respect the histories, languages and cultures of these peoples, whose presence continues to enrich our vibrant and changing communities. Join me in learning more about the tribes and these lands, by following the links provided.
Next Post Preview: Off-road takes its toll in dirt so we get the rig cleaned up before the next leg of the trip into Wyoming where the views continue to be incredible and I manage to get a hike before the day’s end.
HOME AWAY FROM HOME: My adventure camper is a lovely little teardrop made-to-order by the incredibly talented people at Vistabule in St. Paul, MN.
GEAR: Granite Gear Crown2 38 Pack,Marmot Kompressor Pack,Oboz Katabatic Mid Waterproof,Oboz Katabic Low,Mountain Hardware Stretchdown™ Light Jacket, Mountain Hardware Stretchdown™ Pant,REI Co-op XeroDry GTX Jacket,REI Co-op Magma 850 Down Hoodie,REI Co-op XeroDry GTX Pants, Gnara Go There™ Pants, Chickfly Merino Eucalyptus Leggings,Icebreaker Women’s Merino 200 Oasis Long Sleeve Crewe Thermal Top, Icebreaker Merino 200 Oasis Thermal Leggings, SPOT GEN3 Satellite GPS Messenger, Dueter Dirtbag, Kula Cloth, Leki Women’s Micro Vario Cor-Tec TA trekking poles, Nemo Dragonfly™ Ultralight Backpacking Tent, Nemo Sonic™ 0 Down Sleeping Bag,Paria Thermodown 30 down quilt, Exped Ultra 7R Mat,REI Flash 3-Season Sleeping Pad, Thermarest Z Seat™,MSR Pocket Rocket Stove, TOAKS Titanium 450ML Cup with Lid, MSR® IsoPro™ Fuel.
Want to know more about my gear selections? Head on over to Gear & Gadgets or check out my posts titled “Gear in Review”.
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