Go West: Rocks and Stars

Traveling, Camping and Hiking My Way Westward

#54 of my 2023 52 Hike Challenge

Trail/Park: Split Rock Nature Trail, Jumbo Rocks, Split Rock Loop, Arch Rock Nature Trail, Cholla Cactus Garden Nature Trail, Joshua Tree National Park

Trash Collected: 0.31 pounds

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I keep finding myself writing about learning to flow with the challenges through this trip. How the entire experience as it has unfolded has reminded me that as much as one can plan, there are times when leaving the door open for a challenge often brings unexpected solution. Rather than fighting against it, moving through the difficulty is best. The previous day challenge of finding a spot to camp ended up, yet again, putting me exactly where I would be open to the unexpected.

Twentynine Palms and Jumbo Rocks

Morning brought with it the promise of another day of sunshine and possibility. I made myself a hearty breakfast before packing up again to head back into Joshua Tree National Park. In the hours before finally giving in to sleep the night before, I’d spent some time deciding on my plan for the day. One of the stops I’d make on the way into the park would be the Oasis of Mara where I hoped I could top off my water supply, having used more than expected the day before, and maybe take a short hike.

The Oasis Center was a short drive from the RV park. It appeared to be much less used than the Visitor Center near the West Entrance gate. The lot was nearly empty except for a few cars I assumed belonged to the staff working at the site. I felt much more comfortable parking the rig across a few spots than I would have if the place was busy.

The Oasis includes a short interpretive trail which I decided would be the first of my day’s hikes. In my slow roll mode, I took time to read the interpretive signs along the paved trail. The trail loops around a group of palm trees. Before long I’d learn the story of the Yuhaaviatam/Maarenga’yam (Serrano) who first settled the area and the reason for the palms. The namesake of Twentynine Palms. A story of hope and home. I’d always wondered how Twentynine Palms got its name but hadn’t researched it. Learning the story while standing in the presence of the palms was, I think, more meaningful than just reading it.

With this new perspective of the area, I headed back into the park for my day of hiking. Already getting busy along the stops on Park Road, my mindset was one of acceptance. Accepting there would be more people than I like when hiking, acceptance I might have challenges parking, acceptance I would have to choose between some hikes as the day progressed. All of it made easier by knowing my place to sleep for the night was waiting for me.

The trails around Skull Rock were already filled with folks climbing over rocks, taking endless pictures. I grabbed a few things from the camper, deciding to leave the rooftop fan running since it was already getting hot inside even with the shades drawn. With the solar panels soaking up the sun’s rays I knew I’d still have plenty of juice for the evening even if I ran the fan.

Trails along many of the main sights are easy to follow. Wide paths of sand bordered in places by rocks and signs to help with navigating between them. Skull Rock sits just of Park Road and is striking. While I appreciated the formation, I was curious to explore both the Skull Rock and Discovery Trails, again taking more time to read the interpretive signage along the way. It’s so easy to take hundreds of photos when being open to newness. The rock formations are so interesting in their soft roundness worn by wind, sand and time. I wandered, losing track of time. Eventually I headed back to the rig. The dry heat telling me I needed to add some supplement to my water bottle. A snack was in order too. I ducked into the air conditioning of my car and readied for the drive to Arch Rock Trail.

Arch Rock Rest

Arch Rock Trail is a short 1.2-mile round-trip hike on an out-and-back trail. Refreshed with my supplemented water and snacks I started off on the hike behind a large group of college students, hanging back as they stopped often to take pictures. Another couple of hikers were doing the same. We had time on our side so giving space to the group gave us an opportunity to more closely observe the surroundings.

Despite my best efforts to allow the group time to get ahead, I got to Arch Rock just as the group was scrambling over and on top of the formation. It was frustrating to watch. Many of these formations are much more fragile than they appear. Over time the weight and use will bring the demise of the arch sooner than nature will on its own. But rather than letting my frustration get the best of me, I simply sat a short distance away, finding ways to take selfies without climbing up the formation. Eventually the group left, and a small window opened for me to take photos of the arch without people before more came along. I sat for a bit longer in the shade of the rocks watching people come and go. The return hike was filled with people, adding to the anticipation of a quiet Sunday evening of camping to come.

Teddybear and Pinto

On my way to the Cottonwood Campground, I stopped at the Cholla Catus Garden pull off from Pinto Basin Road in the area where the park transitions from the Mojave to the Colorado Desert. These cacti are found all over this part of the country, deceptively looking like soft teddy bears. The light glows through their spines all throughout the day. But they are far from sweet. I’d made sure to bring a simple hair comb in my pack based on friends’ recommendations. The spines of the cactus end in a tiny hook that easily attaches to anything that gets close enough. Getting the spine out is like taking a barbed fish hook out. Difficult. Painful.

I was careful to keep a respectful distance despite wanting to touch them. The timing of my visit was perfect as many were in bloom. Bright yellow flowers at the tips of the arms covered many plants. And the dead, dark brown pieces which had fallen or were still attached to the main plant in some cases definitely reminded me of childhood teddy bears. The places where large chunks had dried out on dead pieces showed the delicate lattice which supports each plant.

The heat of the day was hitting its peak near 90 degrees when I stopped at an overlook across the Joshua Tree National Park Wilderness, the expanse of the Pinto Mountains in the distance another remarkable sight. The Pinto Basin Road meanders southeast for nearly 30 miles. There are a few pull-offs where one might see wildlife, but the day was waning, so I only stopped a couple times. Each time I wished I could wander off into the wilderness to explore.

Sunset and Stars

The southern Visitor Center was my first stop to check into the campground and get information about the nearby trails. My campsite A-9 was a pull-off just big enough for the rig. I got to work settling in and making an early dinner. I journaled and read. I sat and watched the sunset play across the mountains on all around me. As the temperature dropped to the chill of desert night, I snuggled into my camper. This would be the first night on the trip where I felt comfortable falling asleep with the big window shade open to stargaze and enjoy the play of another camper’s fire.

As I watched the stars appear and the flickering light of the campfire a few sites down, I reflected with gratitude for this unique and quite space. For the day exploring on foot. And for the morning to come where I would take one last hike before moving on to visit friends in Phoenix for a few days.

Next Post Preview: The day starts with reminders to be consistent with where I put my hiking gear on trips with the camper. It ends sitting beside a firepit with long-time friends I don’t get to see nearly enough.

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This travel, hike and camping took place on the traditional territory of the Chumash, Tongva (Gabrieleno), Ɂívil̃uwenetem Meytémak (Cahuilla), Payómkawichum (Luiseño), Yuhaaviatam/Maarenga’yam (Serrano), and Newe Sogobia (Western Shoshone) who have stewarded this land for time immemorial. I respect the histories, languages and cultures of these peoples, whose presence continues to enrich our vibrant and changing communities. Join me in learning more about the tribes and these lands, by following the links provided.

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HOME AWAY FROM HOME: My adventure camper is a lovely little teardrop made-to-order by the incredibly talented people at Vistabule in St. Paul, MN.

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GEAR: Granite Gear Crown2 38 Pack,Marmot Kompressor Pack,Oboz Katabatic Mid Waterproof,Oboz Katabic Low,Mountain Hardware Stretchdown™ Light Jacket, Mountain Hardware Stretchdown™ Pant,REI Co-op XeroDry GTX Jacket,REI Co-op Magma 850 Down Hoodie,REI Co-op XeroDry GTX Pants, Gnara Go There™ Pants, Chickfly Merino Eucalyptus Leggings,Icebreaker Women’s Merino 200 Oasis Long Sleeve Crewe Thermal Top, Icebreaker Merino 200 Oasis Thermal Leggings, SPOT GEN3 Satellite GPS Messenger, Dueter Dirtbag, Kula Cloth, Leki Women’s Micro Vario Cor-Tec TA trekking poles, Nemo Dragonfly™ Ultralight Backpacking Tent, Nemo Sonic™ 0 Down Sleeping Bag,Paria Thermodown 30 down quilt, Exped Ultra 7R Mat,REI Flash 3-Season Sleeping Pad, Thermarest Z Seat™,MSR Pocket Rocket Stove, TOAKS Titanium 450ML Cup with Lid, MSR® IsoPro™ Fuel.

Want to know more about my gear selections? Head on over to Gear & Gadgets or check out my posts titled “Gear in Review”.

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